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Jewelry patents click here
925 marks its sterling silver 925, meaning 925 parts
silver per 1000 alloy a fusion of compatible metals (or
minerals) while molten, to enhance the 925 marks its
sterling silver 925, meaning 925 parts silver per 1000
alloy a fusion of compatible metals (or minerals) while
molten, to enhance the hardness or other properties of
the resulting combination of metals
Aigrette - A hat/hair ornament in the form of jeweled
feathers, originally used to hold or support a real feather.
Developed in the 1700s to include the form of flower
bouquets and sprays, and worn as hair or corsage
ornaments. Aigrette is French for "tuft or spray (of
feathers)."
amethyst precious form of quartz, purple or violet in
color, the yellow variety is known
as citrine
amulet charm or object carried about the person as a
protection from evil or to bring good luck
antiquing a darkening of the recessed areas of gold or
silver jewelry to enhance the visibility of the engraving.
art deco (1910-1930): originally a French movement in
the 1920s reacting against the ornate art nouveau style
which preceded WWI. Popular in the US the style laid
emphasis on bold geometric patterns and abstract forms.
A stilted, stylized design which was named after the
1925 L'Exposition Internationale des Arts Decoratifs et
Industriels Modernes, held in Paris, France. Much of the
Art Deco design was a transition from the earlier Art
Nouveau, and as with the nouveau epoch, was inspired
by the Art of the American Indian, ancient Egyptian, and
Greek and Roman architecture. The early 1920's
interest in Cubism and Dadism as a new Art form, greatly
influenced the Art Deco period. The King Tut traveling
exhibit, in the 1970's, renewed the craze for Egyptian
design jewelry. Additionally, the mysteries of the
pyramids and a continuing revival of astrological studies,
lent itself to Art Deco designs which in turn were
incorporated in the Art Moderne period following 1930.
Art MODERNE (1935-1945): It is generally accepted
that the period of the 1920-s to the 1930's is the Art
Deco period. The decade of 1940-1950 is considered
the "modern" period, an era in which just about any
conceivable type of design -- whether it be flamboyant or
contrived with delicate fancy -- survived. However, the
Art Moderne period (1935-1945) avoided such frivolous
swirls and instead streamlined into crisp geometric lines,
all designs of decorative and utilitarian Art forms.
"Modern" seems to be a term giving license to all
creativity in any form, be it eccentric or strictly along
conventional jeweler's lines. The Art Moderne period
expresses the conflict between machine and nature,
which is so evident in Art Deco. But Art Moderne
contains somewhat less contrived Artistry, although
some pieces do appear as near absurdities.
Art nouveau art movement widespread throughout
Europe from around 1880-1910 particularly in the
decorative and applied arts characterized by sinous,
organic forms and elaborately curving lines
ARTS AND CRAFTS Arts and Crafts was an artistic
movement that produced hand-crafted pieces toward the
end of the 1800's. Pieces purposely look hand-made,
incorporating hammer marks and simple cabochon
settings. The Arts and Crafts movement also revived the
art of enamel.
assay the process of establishing the standards of
purity of gold, silver and other alloys reach the required
legal standard without actually analysing the total
composition of the alloy. After successful assay the
article is hallmarked outside the US.
Baguette - A gemstone cut in a narrow rectangular shape
reminiscent of a loaf of French Bread. Small Diamonds
cut in this way are often used as accents for Rings and
Necklaces.
BAKELITE: A trademark for a synthetic resin chemically
formulated and named after Belgian chemist, L. H.
Backeland (1909). This newer plastic was for molding
items formerly created in the highly flammable Celluloid
or in hard rubber molds. It is capable of being molded
and carved.
Bangle - A rigid bracelet that slips over the hand, or
hinged oval worn over the wrist. Some close with a clasp.
Baroque - as a pearl : uneven or craggy shape or
surface. Also an irregularly shaped stone or bead. In
jewelry it is bold, ornate, heavy-looking ornamentation.
BASSE-TAILLE: A type of enameling in which a metal
plate is cut to various depths into which translucent
enamel is poured, thus achieving a 3-dimensional effect.
The depth of relief produces shadings from light to dark.
The deeper the metal is incised, the darker the color;
where shallow routing occurs, the shading is almost
transparent. This routing is worked intaglio, the opposite
of repousse work. (See INTAGLIO and REPOUSSE).
Betrothal ring called anulus pronubus in ancient Rome,
betrothal rings were presented by a man to his fiancee
showing their intention to marry. From earliest times
usually a plain ring without a stone, most popularly a
lover's knot ring or fede ring.
Bezel accurately the top, forward facing rim or edge of a
ring which holds the stone, now commonly used to
describe an entire ring setting. On a signet ring, the
bezel is the flat face used to form an impression in wax.
BIB NECKLACE A bib necklace (also known as a
collarette) is a short necklace with flowing ornaments in
the front.
BOG-OAK old oak wood that has been blackened and
preserved by being in low-oxygen Irish and Scottish
peat-bogs for thousands of years. Bog-oak was carved
and used as inexpensive Victorian era jewelry. It was
also used for decorative objects, bowls, chests, dagger
handles, and other decorative items
BOOKCHAIN A bookchain is a metal chain with
rectangular links of folded metal, each of which looks like
a little book. This style dates from the Victorian era,when these chains held lockets.
BUTTERFLY WING JEWELRY
Butterfly wing jewelry is made from real butterfly wings. A
picture is usually painted on the wings, which is then
enclosed in glass or plastic and then mounted in metal to
make a pin or pendant or other piece of jewelry
Cabochon - A style of cut stone that is oval in shape with
a flat back for setting onto a sheet metal backing. This
style is usually used with opaque stones, but sometimes
is used with the less expensive transparent gemstones.
Cable chain a chain made of oval intersecting links
which lie at 90 degrees to each other as opposed to curb
chain where the links are twisted to enable the chain to
lie flat. cameo gemstone carved to reveal a raised
design often with layers of different colors of stone,
reverse of cameo is intaglio where the design is created
by incising into the stone making a negative pattern,
when pressed into wax or clay the design would be raised
CAMPHOR GLASS Camphor glass is cloudy white glass
that is either blown or pressed. Camphor glass was very
popular in the mid-nineteenth century and used for
jewelry, candlesticks, vases, dishes, barometers, and
other pieces. Camphor glass jewelry imitates rock crystal.
CARNIVAL GLASS: Specifically iridescent glass made
in America from 1910-1930. Usually in pressed
patterns, it was mostly manufactured by Northwood
Glass Co., (Ohio); Imperial Glass Company (Ohio); and
the Fenton Art Glass Company (West Virginia). Carnival
glass was utilized as ornamental beads for hatpins, circa
1930-1940
CARTOUCHE': A shield or scroll with curved edges
used particularly on gold or silver for a monogram. A
cartouche' should not be confused with an escutcheon.
An escutcheon is a plate of metal added or applied to the
top of a signet or monogram type hatpin head, or to any
other piece of jewelry such as a ring or brooch.
Choker necklaces, also known as dog collars (colliers de chien), first became popular in Victorian times, because Princess Alexandra favored them to cover a small scar on her neck. They naturally remained the rage when she became Queen in the Edwardian era, and they're just as popular today - perfect with our Edwardian-inspired fashions.
CELLULOID: A trademark of Hyatt Bros., Newark, NJ
(1868). It is a composition mainly of soluble guncotton
and camphor, resembling ivory in texture and color.
Celluloid was also dyed to imitate coral, tortoise-shell,
amber, malachite, etc. Originally called xylonite,
celluloid is the word most often used to describe any
imitation ivory, bone or tortoise. But there were many
other imitators of such natural elements: "ivorine,"
"French Ivory," "tortine" and the like. Celluloid should
not be confused with the harder and more resilient
plastic known as Bakelite, Catalin, or Marblette.
Celluloid, being highly flammable, lost favor to phenolic
resins of the 1930's. Celluloid was first used as
synthetic ivory in the manufacture of billiard balls
Champléve - An enamelling technique similar to
cloisonné (see below). The difference is that
channels/designs are cut from thick metal, rather than
being placed upon its surface. The design is then filled
with enamel powder and fired, and finally smoothed and
polished.
CHATELAINE: A decorative clasp or a hook from which
many chains are hung to accommodate various
household accessories such as thimbles, scissors, keys,
files, or to display jeweler's conceits such as watches,
seals, and other decorative implements. From
chatelaines hung various "necessaries," such as a
miniature fan, glove buttoner, or a dog whistle. There
were also grooming devices: an ear spoon for cleaning
the ears, a sharp pick for cleaning under the nails, as
well as a toothpick. Very short chatelaine chains were
called chatelettes; they measured from 2" to 6" in length.
An ornamental pink or brooch was attached, although the
jewelry could be worn separately. The chatelette chain
had a swivel at the end of the chain from which to hang a
watch. The brooch was in the popular bowknot of pansy
wrought in baroque fashion or an unusual twisted
design. Early chatelaines were worn at the waist, but in
more recent times, the clasp-type was pinned to the
dress or waist, another ornament. Silver card cases,
coin holders, and vanity cases comprised the
chatelaines of the 1925-1940 years, when the chatelaine
ring was introduced. From the tiny, short chain, came a
clasp which secured a handkerchief and vanity cases
equipped to hold scent pills, a little mirror, straight pins,
coins, a lipstick and powder puff. The introduction of
rhinestones studded plastic evening purses during the
deco period ended the long-reigning chatelaine
CHRYSOPRASE: Apple-green in color, it is actually a
dyed chalcedony or agate which has a cloud-like rather
than brilliant color. It is almost like "vasoline" glass,
seemingly with an oily surface. This stone was very
popular during the Art Deco and Art Moderne periods,
particularly when combined with marcasites and silver.
CINNABAR: Cinnabar is the only important ore of
Mercury and is a brilliant red or vermilion color mineral
used as a red pigment. Most popular in China, the origin
of the word is probably Chinese. The color is sometimes
referred to as "dragon's blood." The pigment is highly
prized by Chinese Artisans for doing inlay work for
jewelry and other Artifacts. Cinnabar is a term often
misused when referred to as a "gemstone."
Claddagh ring Irish ring of uncertain derivation,
probably 17th century, the essential characteristics of
which are two hands embracing a heart, topped by a
crown. The hands symbolize faith, the heart, love, and
the crown, loyalty and fidelity. Probably derived from the
Italian fede ring.
Cloisonné - The art of decorative enameling collar
semi rigid necklace made from hardened wire or steel
wrapped with sterling silver or gold
Costume jewelry - Jewelry made from imitation or
semiprecious stones/jewels and inexpensive metals.
Although it has something of a gaudy reputation today, at
its height many pieces were quite stunning. It became
very popular during WWI and WWII, and at the rise of
Hollywood.
Cuff bracelet - bracelet in semi rigid form open on one
side allowing the wrist to pass through instead of over
the hand .
CUT STEEL Cut steel is steel that is cut with a huge
number of facets and then riveted to a plate of steel (or
other metal). It was widely used in jewelry during the late
18th century, including shoe buckles, buttons, bracelet,
necklaces, earrings, hair ornaments, and as a setting for
cameos. Early in the 19th century, cut steel quality
diminished and was stamped out in strips instead of
being individually cut and riveted
DAMASCENING- Damascening is the inlaying of a soft
metal (like silver or copper) into a hard metal (like steel).
The name comes from the city of Damascus, where this
process was first used
DEAD PAWN Dead pawn is an item that was pawned
but was never collected by the original owner.
DIAMANTÉ- Diamanté is another word for rhinestone
Dress Clip. A style of brooch popular during the 1930s
and 1940s that uses a hinged clip or two-pronged pin to
fasten the article to clothing. They were often made in
pairs.
Duette Each "duette" has two clips which attach to a pin
base; they can be worn as a single pin or as two clips.
EARRINGS: Decorated clip or screw backs smaller than
modern. (Screw backs were patented in 1894, but not
popular until circa 1909.) Threaded posts and nuts
larger than modern. Kidney wires thicker than modern.
EDWARDIAN PERIOD -The Edwardian period (also
known as the belle Epoque) was the time of the reign of
Edward VII of England (1901-1910). Edwardian jewelry
is delicate and elegant. Edwardian designs frequently
use bows and filigrees Pearls and diamonds were also
frequently used.
Estate Jewelry. Jewelry from the twentieth century that
has been previously owned. In current usage the term
does not necessarily refer to jewelry that has come from
an estate.
Egyptian Revival. Jewelry made in the 19th century that
evokes the feeling of ancient Egypt in its use of styles,
symbols, and motifs.
Etruscan Revival. A commanding style of 19th century
gold jewelry that drew its inspiration from the
archeological discoveries at Herculaneum and Pompeii.
FESTOON: A garland of chain or chains decorated with
ornamental drops or pendants which lay on a curve. A
chatelaine chain could well be worn in festoon fashion,
meaning it would be draped from shoulder to shoulder,
forming a curve at the center fall.
Fire polished - Glass beads that have been passed
through a flame rather than buffed to smooth their
surface.
FLEUR-de-LIS: This is the jeweler's mark for the city of
Verdun, France. The term means "flower of light." The
fleur-de-lis is the French symbol of life and power and is
designed from nature's iris. This symbol is found on
many Victorian, Edwardian, and Art Nouveau pieces of
jewelry and has been carried out in modern jewelry
designs as well.
FOBS: The terms "fobs" and "charms" were
interchangeable from mid-1850 through the 1930's.
Watch fobs or watch charms were in vogue in the 1890-s
through the turn of the century and certainly on into the
1930's when the pocket watch became more popular
than ever.
FRENCH IVORY (see also Celluloid, Bakelite, and
Plastic): An imitation of ivory tusk in grained celluloid or
plastic. "French Ivory" is a registered trademark. Other
ivory imitations, not quite as good, were Ivorette, Ivorine,
Ivory Pyralin, and DuBarry Pyralin. In the 1870's, there
was a shortage of ivory for billiard balls and a $10,0000
prize was offered to anyone who could produce a
substitute. John Wesley Hyatt mixed nitric acid and
cellulose (guncotton), to make celluloid. It was the first
plastic to look like ivory. "French Ivory" products were
produced by J. B. Ash Co. (Rockford, Illinois). Since
celluloid was highly flammable, it was eventually
replaced with Bakelite and other fire-retardant plastics.
Freshwater pearls an irregular pearl of various colors
produced by fresh water molluscs such as mussels and
clams, popular in Roman jewelry for its irregular shape
and relative availability.
FRUIT SALAD"Fruit Salad" jewelry is costume jewelry
that is set with colorful, molded stones.
Garnet a family of red gemstones common in medieval
jewelry ranging from the deep red almandine to the blood
red pyrope.
GILT: A method used after the invention of
electro-gilding. Gilding (gilt) is a process of plating a
die-stamped piece of base metal to give it a real or
pseudo gold or silver color. Most often, and more
abundant, are gold color ornaments which have been
gilded, rather than silver-color gilt. Most fashion or
costume jewelry is rhodium plated rather than silver gilt.
Gilding is considered inferior to rolled plate or
electroplating
GIVRE BEADS- Givré beads are beads made of
transparent glass fused around a translucent core. Givré
means frost in French
Thesaurus words for "glass": CM-glass, CR-glass,
achromatic lens, adobe, aerological instrument, agate
glass, alabaster, aneroid barometer, aneroidograph,
astigmatic lens, barograph, barometer, barometrograph,
beaker, bifocals, bijouterie, billiard table, binoculars,
biscuit, bisque, blown glass, board, bottle glass, bowl,
bowling alley, bowling green, brick, bubble,
bullet-resisting glass, burning glass, camera, camphor
glass, carnival glass, cement, ceramic ware, ceramics,
cheval glass, china, clapboard, clear as glass, coated
lens, concave lens, concave mirror, concavo-convex
lens, condenser, convex lens, convex mirror, coralene,
costume jewelry, crock, crockery, crown glass, crystal,
cut glass, diaphane, display case, distorting mirror,
eggshell, enamelware, eyeglass, eyeglasses, eyepiece,
face, fiber glass, field glass, firebrick, flat, frosted glass,
glass house, glasses, glasslike, glassware, glassy,
glaze, goblet, goggles, ground glass, hand lens, hand
mirror, house of cards, hurricane-hunter aircraft,
hyalescent, hyaline, hygrometer, ice, image, ivory,
jewelry, jug, junk jewelry, laminated glass, lath, lens,
level, light, looking glass, lorgnette, lorgnon, magnifier,
magnifying glass, mahogany, marble, matchwood,
meniscus, mercury, microscope, mirror, object glass,
objective, objective prism, ocular, old paper, opaline,
opera glasses, pane, paper, parchment, paste, piecrust,
pier glass, plane, plank, plate glass, porcelain, pot,
pottery, prism, radiosonde, reader, reading glass,
rear-view mirror, recording barometer, reflector,
refractory, revet, rhinestone, safety glass, satin, scatter
pins, scope, seeing glass, shake, shaving mirror,
sheathe, shingle, shopwindow, showcase, silk, slate,
slide, smooth, specs, spectacles, speculum, spy glass,
spyglass, stained glass, stemware, stone, telephoto lens,
telescope, tennis court, terrestrial telescope, thatch,
thermal detector, thermometer, thermostat, tile, tiling,
toric lens, transparent substance, trifocals, tumbler, urn,
vacuometer, varifocal lens, vase, velvet, veneer, vitreous,
vitrics, vitriform, vitrine, wall in, wall up, wallpaper, watch
crystal, watch glass, weather balloon, weather
instrument, weather satellite, weather vane,
weatherboard, weatherglass, window, window glass,
window mirror, windowlight, windowpane, zoom
binoculars, zoom lens
GLOVE RING A glove ring is a clip-like device that is
used to attach one's gloves to a purse (or other object).
The glove ring has a clip on one end (for the gloves) and
a chain with a clasp on the other end (to attach the
device to a purse handle)
Gold the most malleable of all metals, yellow in its
natural state though alloyed into various colors relatively
inert and certainly the most popular metal in jewelry for
over 6,000 years.
Gold filled - Base metal or silver that has a layer of high
karat gold bonded by heat and pressure, not
electroplated, over its surface.
GOLD STONE- Goldstone (also known as aventurine) is
a shimmering quartz stone that ranges in color from
yellow to red to light green to light brown. The shimmer
is caused by tiny metallic particles (mica) within the
stone (not gold)
Gothic revival revival of medievalism which began in
the 18th century as part of the romantic movement, but
became a more scholarly reinvention of gothic forms in
architecture
Guilloché. A style of enameling in which a continuous,
engraved decoration is first created by an engine-turned
lathe, and then covered with translucent enamel.
GUTTA PERCHA- Gutta percha is a resin from the
Isonandra Gutta tree. Jewelry was made from gutta
percha in the mid-1800's. Gutta percha was also used to
insulate electrical cables. The Gutta percha company
was founded by Dr. Montgomerie in 1845 and was in business until 1930
GYPSY RING A gypsy ring (also spelled gipsy) is a ring
with a recessed stone or stones. Also known as "star
setting."
HAIR JEWELRY Hair jewelry is jewelry containing or
composed of locks of hair. This type of jewelry was
popular in the mid-1800's as a remembrance of
deceased loved ones.
Hallmark - marks stamped on jewelry throughout much
of the world to attest to the purity of the metal after Assay
European hallmarks are legally required, and date back
to the early middle ages, an early form of consumer
protection against fraud. Marks are not officially required
in the US but are carried by custom and practice. The
mark is incised, punched, or stamped on gold or silver to
show quality and to signify purity of metal according to
"sterling" or "carat" standard.
Marks Mistaken for Name of
Manufacturer/Designer/Jeweler:
R.P. = Rolled Gold or Silver Plate
E.P. = Gold or Silver Electroplate
G.F. = Gold Filled (usually preceded by numeral; i.e.,
14K G.F. or 10K G.F.)
N.S. = Nickel Silver
G.S. = German Silver
B.M. = Britannia Metal
W.M. = White Metal
G.E.P. = Gold Electro-Plate
INCLUSION an inclusion is a particle of foreign matter
contained within a mineral. Inclusions can be solid,
liquid, or gaseous.
IVORY Ivory is elephant tusks (the large, upper incisor
teeth), which used to be carved into beautiful jewelry,
trinkets, and piano keys. The finest ivory is the white
African elephant ivory; Asian elephant ivory is yellower.
Ivory has a complex characteristic grain which helps
distinguish it from imitations. Using ivory is now banned
since elephants are in danger of going extinct. Other
tusk-like material is often substituted for ivory, including
walrus tusks, whale teeth, hippopotamus teeth, animal
bone, palm seed, and more recently, plastics. Vegetable
ivory comes from the inner seed of the South American
ivory palm and was used for small items, like dice.
Synthetic ivory is made from plastics (like celluloid) and
is called "French Ivory," Ivoride, Ivorine, or "Genuine
French Ivory."
JAPANNED A Japanned finish in jewelry is when metal
is finished with a lustrous, black lacquer.
JELLY BELLY -A jelly belly is a piece of jewelry (usually
a pin) that has a clear lucite or glass center.
JET: Jet is the name given most black jewelry whether it
be genuine or glass. Genuine jet will retain its sparkling
polish for many years. "Black glass" (also known as
'French Jet', even though most black glass came from
Bohemia), will crack, scratch, and become dull. Genuine
jet is a brown-black lignite in which the texture or grain of
the original fossilized wood comprised of coal, can still
be seen.
Lavalier. A type of necklace from which two pendants of
unequal length are suspended; sometimes referred to as
a negligee pendant.
LOCKET - A locket is a pendant that can open up.
Lockets can hold photos, hair, a charm, or other small,
precious object.
MARCASITE - Marcasite is a shiny, metallic
semi-precious stone
MARQUISE - Marquise cut stones have a shape like an
oval with two pointed ends.
Micromosaic. A design or image created by using minute
pieces of colored glass or stone called tesserae. Antique
inlaying of this type was associated with workshops in
Rome.
MILLEFIORI - Millefiori (meaning "thousand flowers" in
Italian) is glass that is formed from multiple canes of
colored glass that are fused together and cut crosswise.
Millefiori glass can also be made into beads.
Mine Cut. An earlier version of the brilliant or round cut, it
has a cushion-shape with more than 58 facets and is
distinguished by a large culet and small table.
MOSAIC: Creating a motif or design parquetry with
minute pieces of colored glass or stone which have been
set into plaster. Individual portions of the design are
sectioned by metal, similar to the form used in cloisonné
enameling. This type of Venetian jewelry work is also
called peitra dura, and was utilized for such designs as
foliage, leaves, flowers, pebbles, etc. In pietra dura, the
mosaic design is usually set in dull jet or black marble
Mourning Jewelry. Jewelry worn to commemorate the
death of a loved one, usually in the form of a ring,
brooch, or necklace; widely worn during the Victorian era
when the death of Prince Albert plunged Queen Victoria
into a lifetime of mourning.
NECESSAIRE Necessaire is another word for etui, a
tiny, decorative, cylindrical-shaped case that was often
carried on a chatelaine. The necessaire/etui was used to
carry small "necessary" items like pencils and scissors.
The etui was first used in the 1720's.
Neoclassical. A design style that employs motifs inspired
by classical antiquity, e.g. urns, garlands, greek key,
palmette
Nickle silver (German) - An alloy that contains 65%
copper, 18% zinc, and 17% nickle
NIELLO: The lines or incisions of a design are
contrasted with the color of the metal, i.e., gold, silver,
etc., by applying in several layers a mixture of sulphur,
lead, silver and copper. This addition appears black
when filled into the engraved metallic work. Niello is a
blackish enameling process, providing contrasts in
highlights and darkness of the design.
PARURE: Matching jewelry containing three or more
pieces such as a necklace, choker, brooch, earrings,
bracelet, and ring. Demi-parure consists of only two or
three matching sets.
PASTE: A superior glass containing oxide of lead used
for jewelry to imitate gems and gemstones. Much paste
is actually a composition of pounded rock crystal melted
with alkaline salts and colored with metallic oxides.
Some paste stones are set with bright foil, a think leaf of
metal placed in back of a glass stone to heighten its
brilliance. The finest quality paste, however, requires no
foil or backing and is usually claw-set or bezel mounted
as if it were the genuine article. Inferior paste may be
backed with mercury or quicksilver and applied by
machine rather than the more expensive handwork
which requires each paste stone to be individually
mounted.
PATE-de-VERRE (Paste Glass): Crystals and lead
combined in a pulverized heavy paste compound which
is then layered in a mold and kiln-fired. After cooling, the
mold is broken. The result is a unique object rendered in
muted hues of heavy glass.
Patina. A prized surface effect produced by age and
oxidation.
PAVE' : Stones placed so closely together that almost
no metal shows between them.
PEKING GLASS - Peking (Beijing) glass was first made
in China in the late 1600's, during the Quing Dynasty,
when a German priest introduced glass-making
techniques to he Imperial court. Early Peking glass was
made to imitate porcelain (it often has a translucent,
milky sheen). Later (after 1725), an overlay technique
was developed in which two (or more) layers of glass are
fused together, and then the upper layer(s) are partially
carved away, creating a multi-colored bas relief (similar
to a cameo). Peking glass and overlay glass is used for
vases, bowls, dishes, beads, snuff bottles, and other
objects. Peking glass is still made, but is now
manufactured in Poshan, China, and shipped to Peking
for final finishing.
Penannular brooch almost annular or circular closure
for a cloak, with a small gap to allow the insertion of
fabric held in place by a pin which bisects the circle.
Later developed into the ring brooch where the circle was
completely closed.
Period Jewelry. Jewelry that exhibits the prevailing
design characteristics of a particular period, such as
Edwardian or Art Deco.
Pietra Dura. From the Italian meaning "hard stone," an
inlaying technique using various stones such as
malachite, lapis lazuli, and jasper to create articles of
jewelry and small decorative objects; usually associated
with workshops in Florence
Pinchbeck. "Imitation" gold originally invented by
Christopher Pinchbeck in the 18th century using an alloy
of copper and zinc
Piqué. Tortoiseshell inlaid with a pattern of gold and
silver; popular in the 18th and 19th centuries.
Platinum rare, silvery white metallic element of great strength, weight and resistance to corrosion. Difficult to
alloy, cast and work owing to its very high melting point.
The standard of platinum in the US and most western
countries is 95% pure and is marked PLAT . From
platina, little silver, the word the Spanish gave it when
first seen in South America in the 18th century.
PLIQUE-A-JOUR: A translucent cloisonné in which
there is no metal backing for the enamel work. During
firing, a metal supportive base is used until firing ceases.
Then when the piece has cooled and the enamel has
hardened, the finished product no longer requires this
base so the support is removed.
Poesy short love poem or inscription on rings or other
jewelry particularly of the medieval period. porosity
failures in the casting process leaving granular areas in
the metal which are difficult or impossible to repair,
necessitating recasting. posy alternate spelling of poesy
Purse :Dance purses, necessaires, minaudieres, vanity cases, compacts, coin purses, carryalls, card cases
Renaissance meaning rebirth, the period in western
Europe from the mid fifteenth century onward,
characterized by a radical development in the arts,
politics and sciences
RHINESTONES- Rhinestones are highly reflective
glass made to imitate gemstones
. The original rhinestones were quartz stones ( rock
crystal)) obtained from the Rhine river. These stones
were cut to resemble gemstones. The best rhinestones
today are made of highly reflective leaded glass which is
faceted and polished.
REPOUSSE': Decorating metal by pushing out from
behind or from the reverse side, in order to create a
design in relief. Repousse' is work in metal. Working
from the front is called intaglio, which can be achieved in
metal and/or gem. However, neither process can be
done in glass or plastics, which must be molded.
Rose gold or red gold is alloyed with copper to give its
hue sanskrit ancient and sacred language of Hinduism
SARDONYX Sardonyx is a semi-precious stone that is
formed by two layers, a red-brown layer of sard and a
gray, white, black or brown layer of onyx. Commonly
used in cameos.
Sautoir. A long necklace, popular in the late Victorian
and Edwardian eras, which terminates in tassels or a
pendant.
Sarab dung beetle believed to be sacred by the
Egyptians, often used as an amulet either cast in gold or
from semi precious stones, the flat underside was used
as a signet .
SPRING ring CLASP A bolt ring (also known as a spring
ring) is a hollow circular metal fastening ring with a
spring opening. It is used to attach two other rings or
links of a necklace or bracelet. The bolt ring was
invented early in the 1900's.
Sterling silver the most common British standard of
silver, dating back to the currency in use in England in
the 14th century, comprising 92.5% pure silver and the
balance of copper and other traces. Now widely accepted
as an international standard. tarnish A thin deposit of a
dirt which discolors the surface of metal and is easily
removed. Also a reaction between metals and other
chemicals which discolors the surface, particularly silver
which reacts with sulfur (sulphur). The silver sulfide
(sulphide) can be removed with a proprietary cleaning
product and gentle abrasion.
TREMBLER or Tremblant. A moveable, trembling effect
often found in antique brooches or hair ornaments. It is
generally achieved through the use of coiled springs of
metal mounted to the brooch fitting.
VINAIGRETTE: A small conceit usually executed in gold
or silver, with perforation on top. It held aromatic
vinegar, smelling salts, or spirits of ammonia. This was
a "necessary" carried by expectant mothers from the turn
of the century through the 1940's.
VULCANITE -Vulcanite (also called ebonite) is a hard,
moldable, polished dark colored (ranging from brown to
black) early rubber. Vulcanite was produced by adding
sulfur to vulcanized rubber. It was used for combs,
ornaments, and buttons
Jewelry Patent Dictionary
# 1836: 1 - 109
# 1837: 110 - 545
# 1838: 546-1,105
# 1839: 1,106-1,464
# 1840: 1,465-1,922
# 1841: 1,923-2,412
# 1842: 2,413-2,900
# 1843: 2,901-3,394
# 1844: 3,395-3,872
# 1845: 3,873-4,347
# 1846: 4,348-4,913
# 1847: 4,914-5,408
# 1848: 5,409-5,992
# 1849: 5,993-6,980
# 1850: 6,981-7,864
# 1851: 7,865-8,621
# 1852: 8,622-9,511
# 1853: 9,512-10,357
# 1854: 10,358-12,116
# 1855: 12,117-14,008
# 1856: 14,009-16,323
# 1857: 16,324-19,009
# 1858: 19,010-22,476
# 1859: 22,477-26,641
# 1860: 26,642-31,004
# 1861: 31,005-34,044
# 1862: 34,045-37,265
# 1863: 37,266-41,046
# 1864: 41,047-45,684
# 1865: 45,685-51,783
# 1866: 51,784-60,657
# 1867: 60,658-72,958
# 1868: 72,959-85,502
# 1869: 85,503-98,459
# 1870: 98,460-110,616
# 1871: 110,617-122,303
# 1872: 122,304-134,503
# 1873: 134,504-146,119
# 1874: 146,120-158,349
# 1875: 158,350-171,640
# 1876: 171,641-185,812
# 1877: 185,813-198,732
# 1878: 198,733-211,077
# 1879: 211,078-223,210
# 1880: 223,211-236,136
# 1881: 236,137-251,684
# 1882: 251,685-269,819
# 1883: 269,820-291,015
# 1884: 291,916-310,162
# 1885: 310,163-333,493
# 1886: 333,494-355,290
# 1887: 355,291-375,719
# 1888: 375,720-395,304
# 1889: 395,305-418,664
# 1890: 418,665-443,986
# 1891: 443,987-466,314
# 1892: 466,315-488,975
# 1893: 488,976-511,743
# 1894: 511,744-531,618
# 1895: 531,619-552,501
# 1896: 552,502-574,368
# 1897: 574,369-596,466
# 1898: 596,467-616,870
# 1899 : 616,871-640,166
# 1900 : 640,167-664,826
# 1901: 664,827-690,384
# 1902: 690,385-717,520
# 1903: 717,521-748,566
# 1904: 748,567-778,833
# 1905: 778,834-808,617
# 1906: 808,618-839,798
# 1907: 839,799-875,678
# 1908: 875,679-908,435
# 1909: 908,436-945,009
# 1910: 945,010-980,177
# 1911: 980,178-1,013,094
# 1912: 1,013,095-1,049,325
# 1913: 1,049,326-1,083,266
# 1914: 1,083,267-1,123,211
# 1915: 1,123,212-1,166,418
# 1916: 1,166,419-1,210,388
# 1917: 1,210,389-1,251,457
# 1918: 1,251,458-1,290,026
# 1919: 1,290,027-1,326,898
# 1920: 1,326,899-1,364,062
# 1921: 1,364,063-1,401,947
# 1922: 1,401,948-1,440,361
# 1923: 1,440,362-1,478,995
# 1924: 1,478,996-1,521,589
# 1925: 1,521,590-1,568,039
# 1926: 1,568,040-1,612,699
# 1927: 1,612,700-1,654,520
# 1928: 1,654,521-1,696,896
# 1929: 1,696,897-1,742,180
# 1930: 1,742,181-1,787,423
# 1931: 1,787,424-1,839,189
# 1932: 1,839,190-1,892,662
# 1933: 1,892,663-1,941,448
# 1934: 1,941,449-1,985,877
# 1935: 1,985,878-2,026,515
# 1936: 2,026,516-2,066,308
# 1937: 2,066,309-2,104,003
# 1938: 2,104,004-2,142,079
# 1939: 2,142,080-2,185,169
# 1940: 2,185,170-2,227,417
# 1941: 2,227,418-2,268,539
# 1942: 2,268,540-2,307,006
# 1943: 2,307,007-2,338,080
# 1944: 2,338,081-2,366,153
# 1945: 2,366,154-2,391,855
# 1946: 2,391,856-2,413,674
# 1947: 2,413,675-2,433,823
# 1948: 2,433,824-2,457,796
# 1949: 2,457,797-2,492,943
# 1950: 2,492,944-2,536,015
# 1951: 2,536,016-2,580,378
# 1952: 2,580,379-2,624,045
# 1953: 2,624,046-2,664,561
# 1954: 2,664,562-2,698,433
# 1955: 2,698,434-2,728,912
# 1956: 2,728,913-2,775,761
# 1957: 2,775,762-2,818,566
# 1958: 2,818,567-2,866,972
# 1959: 2,866,973-2,919,442
# 1960: 2,919,443-2,966,680
# 1961: 2,966,681-3,015,102
# 1962: 3,015,103-3,070,800
# 1963: 3,070,801-3,116,486
# 1964: 3,116,487-3,163,864
# 1965: 3,163,865-3,226,728
# 1966: 3,226,729-3,295,142
# 1967: 3,295,143-3,360,799
# 1968: 3,360,800-3,419,906
# 1969: 3,419,907-3,487,469
# 1970: 3,487,470-3,551,908
# 1971: 3,551,909-3,631,538
# 1972: 3,631,539-3,707,728
# 1973: 3,707,729-3,781,913
# 1974: 3,781,914-3,858,240
# 1975: 3,858,241-3,930,270
# 1976: 3,930,271-4,000,519
# 1977: 4,000,520-4,065,811
# 1978: 4,065,812-4,131,951
# 1979: 4,131,952-4,180,866
# 1980: 4,180,867-4,242,756
# 1981: 4,242,757-4,308,621
# 1982: 4,308,622-4,366,578
# 1983: 4,366,579-4,423,522
# 1984: 4,423,523-4,490,884
# 1985: 4,490,885-4,562,595
# 1986: 4,562,596-4,633,525
# 1987: 4,633,526-4,716,593
# 1988: 4,716,594-4,794,651
# 1989: 4,794,652-4,890,334
# 1990: 4,890,335-4,980,926
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